VOLUME 8 - 09.24 - On Models as Cultural Markers

The eighth issue of Study delves into the archives of casting director Dominique Vinant whose career was transformative within the fashion industry. Vinant began working in the late 90s for avant-garde Parisian designers such as Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Martine Sitbon or Yohji Yamamoto, playing a pivotal role in redefining traditional beauty standards. Her work celebrated uniqueness, showcasing models with distinct characteristics and personalities that resonated deeply with the visionary aesthetics of the designers she collaborated with.

Vinant’s casting approach aligned with the deconstructivist fashion movement of the time, where designers were not merely creating clothes but also challenging societal norms around fashion, identity, and beauty standards. The "cabines" of models she assembled were not just reflections of the garments but were integral to the entire narrative of these designers' shows, making her influence as much cultural as it was visual, helping to expand the concept of beauty.

The issue includes an interview with Dominique Vinant by casting director Rachel Chandler, along with essays by Angelo Flaccavento, Fabrice Paineau, Song-I Saba and Dan Thawley. 

The fashion insert photographed by Bruce Weber and styled by Bryan Molloy revisits the esthetics and casting philosophy of the Parisian runways of the late 90s.

Contributors : Rachel Chandler, Alexandra Gordienko, Brian Molloy, Hisato Tasaka, Dominique Vinant, Bruce Weber

Contributing Writers: Angelo Flaccavento, Fabrice Paineau, Song-I Saba, Dan Thawley

Art Direction : Rupert Smyth Studio